Tuesday, December 6, 2011

last days in Nicaragua: a heavy heart

Per usual, I apologize in not keeping up the blog as frequently as I should have. I was prepared to write about my last couple weeks, when on Monday morning, I was shocked with the news that one of my good friends from home died suddenly on Sunday. Sam Rathnow, a neighbor, a former Manual alumni, and above all a friend, was one of the most genuine, kind, and well-rounded people I have ever known. Coming home to see him over breaks was always such a pleasure, as he welcomed you with open arms and that incredibly handsome smile. He was always so interested in what you were doing or what you had to say, even though he was accomplishing great things on his own, finishing up his senior year at Appalachian State University. I was so excited to share my stories of abroad with him, as he has spent a good amount of time in Nicaragua himself.

It is with a heavy heart then, that I head home a day early in order to attend his memorial. It's hard to have proper closure of my life-changing semester, and to have proper closure with his passing. Also, this tragedy opened a similar wound left by the death of another incredible friend of mine, Gus McCravey, who passed over the summer; both 21-year-old vibrant, young men.

For my final project however, we're required to reflect on ourselves as "agents of change," and this opportunity to write allowed me to express not only things I've discovered over the semester, but the struggles I've had with the passing of two friends. I'm presenting my writing below, as well as picture of Sam.
Sam on one of his many travels.
Dedicated to Sam and Gus:


There’s an old saying, and I’m not sure of its origin or who was the first to say it, but I’m sure it is something that all of us have heard: “the only thing that is constant, is change.” We all understand that the world we live in today is one of rapid change, with the increased technology that has occurred over the past century allowing us to buy things with a click of a mouse, to send a message through a phone. Change is not only constant, but it is everywhere around us. Change is slow, change is sudden, change is personal, and change is large-scale.
            When thinking of myself as an agent of change, it’s often hard to believe that I have much effect on anything outside of my personal context. I am one; one voice, one body, one mind. It is the ever-present argument of the democratic system, “I only have one vote, so what does it matter?” But to think in this way is stifling, selfish, and incorrect. The changes of the world may seem like large entities of thousands, too big to count and too powerful to measure, but it’s ignorant to ignore that they often started as a power of one, of two, or of few. The changes started within the inner-workings of one, and their ability to arrive at a place within themselves to embrace and embody their motives for change.
            The author Robert Pisnig, in his book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance states, “The place to improve the world is first in one's own heart and head and hands, and then work outward from there.” To be an agent of change then, one must be certain and comfortable in their ability to enact such a transformation outside of themselves; it won’t work if you are not fully convinced and believe in what you are fighting for. This is where I sit, currently, as a 21-year-old young woman swirling in a world of uncertainty, trial-and-error, and becoming. In popular culture, the teenage years are painted as being painful, tough, and filled with anxiety and angst. However I think this is a misconception, because no one warned me how hard the twenties were going to be.  My years as a twenty-something have consisted of a relationship, a break-up, a devastating moral misstep and continual recovery, three new countries, new anxieties, new friends, and the tragic loss of two excellent ones as well. My strength, endurance, and soul have been tested in ways I’ve never imagined, and my continual blooming in life has only showed me that, as they say, it only gets harder.
            Just as the twenties are filled with beauty and curiosity, they are equally as complicated and hard to digest. I am discovering slowly the complexities of life, the deep trenches that were not too long ago unknown to me, as well as the high peaks that are hard to climb but worth the struggle. It’s a constant wonder of, “am I doing this life thing right?” What will I make of myself, how will I treat others, will I make my mother proud, am I living a fulfilling life, will I be happy with what I am? It seems that the entering of adulthood and the continuation through life is filled with this wonder, and that this is just the beginning. And all the while, as we’re pondering these incredibly boggling questions, we must continue to stay positive, experience life with happiness and gratefulness, and remain humble. Just as the musical artist Michael Fronti says, “sometimes the hardest thing to do is just to stay human.”
            While I strive to make myself an agent of change, I must first be securing who I am. It is a conscious struggle at first, in which we leave our inner kingdoms of self and look outwards to the world community. It is our incredibly unique ability as humans to be freethinking individuals that can simultaneously enact change and be conscious of our ability to do so. The author David Foster Wallace succinctly explains in his 2005 Kenyon College Commencement address this battle: “The really important kind of freedom involves attention, and awareness, and discipline, and effort, and being able truly to care about other people and to sacrifice for them, over and over, in myriad petty little unsexy ways, every day.” As beings on this planet, we are all in this together; if I live my life in such an “unsexy way” then I hope that others are sacrificing in ways that will help me as well. We can find beauty and change in everything; the birth of new relationships, the loss of others. Each is a lesson, each is a chance to make a change in us, to turn around and make a change in others.
            So this ever constant change in the intricacies of life? Yeah, I’m still working on that part. I’m still digesting, still marinating, still looking for the answers. We all are, and that’s the beauty of this crazy space and time in which we exist. I hope that with each step I take I am building another block of myself, another stride toward a greater change in the world. It’s the belief that as one, I do matter. My vote counts. My voice can be heard. My body can move. But I first, must embody the change in which I hope to cause. I want to conclude with the end of the poem, “Here Am I,” by Anis Mojgani, an award-winning spoken word poet, that deals with the questions of life: “Like some cats say, something is better than nothing / Feet are smarter than an engine / And dreams are stronger than thighs / And questions are the only answers we need to know that we are alive as I am when I have the mind of a child, asking why is 2 + 3 always equal to 5 ? / Where do people go to when they die? / What made the beauty of the moon? / And the beauty of the sea? / Did that beauty make you? / Did that beauty make me? / Will that make me something? / Will I be something? / Am I something? And the answer comes: already am, always was, and I still have time to be.”

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Volcano Cerro Negro

Rachel and me in our volcano boarding jumpsuits

someone from our group flying down the mountain!

La Concepcion Volcano, Ometepe Island

Dylan staring up at the awesome waterfall we hiked to

Last sunset on the water for us in Nicaragua

Dylan and me on the dock

Monday, November 21, 2011

the last couple of weeks in Nica

Hey there! Sorry for another hiatus in writing... time seems to fly here and I never realize how long I've gone without posting something! So I'll update on some things that we've been doing in Nicaragua over the past couple of weeks.

Since Nicaragua is really safe in relation to the rest of the Central American countries (except for Costa Rica), we're encouraged to travel on our own on the weekends. Which is great, because we've been to a different place every week and they've all been incredible. The first weekend we took a day trip to Laguno de Apoyo which was perfect for sun-bathing, swimming, and kayaking (except for I forgot my bathing suit and had to swim in shorts and in tshirt). The second weekend we made it to Granada, a colonial town that is about an hour and a half away that has become very touristy in the past couple of years and is great for going out. We took Saturday to go to a market and a short boat tour of the giant Lake Nicaragua (the island that we're going to this weekend, Ometepe, takes 3 hours by boat to get to from Granada!). That night we went out on the town, which I have to say was great for a change to go to some fun bars, and then the next day Rachel and I went to a spa and got cheap cheap massages. The place was absolutely beautiful, and the receptionist was from France so I got to use a little French as well! The weekend trips are nice because, as much as we love our families, it's nice to get out and eat nice food from restaurants and sleep in hostels and the works.

This past week we spent the better part of 4 days in our rural stay in Nicaragua, in a region called Miraflor, which translated means "see flowers." I would say it's probably one of the most beautiful places we've been in Central America; mountains beyond mountains of green and trees and coffee fields. But as I picked up my camera to snap my first photo, realized that it was dead. I was SO BUMMED. The food and the scenery was absolutely amazing, and it was so tranquil in the mountains, it felt as if we were taking a relaxing retreat.

However, our tranquilo week was met with a crazy weekend. We traveled to Leon on Saturday morning to stay in a very cool hostel by the name of Bigfoot, that offers trips to the nearby Cerro Negro volcano for nothing else but... volcano boarding, which when CNN ranked the top 100 things to do before you die, was seen as NUMBER TWO. We hiked up the volcano (which is a certain type that I've forgotten the name of but it's made from it's own ash) with a wooden sled, which only took about an hour at most. Once we got to the top we suited up in giant orange jumpsuits and protective goggles, looked down the slope, and freaked out because it was so steep you couldn't see the bottom. I sat down on my sled to go and chickened out because I was so scared! But no worries, I went after two more people, and it was definitely one of the CRAZIEST THINGS I'VE EVER DONE. You're down the slope in under a minute (if you try at all to go fast), and I made it down at 71 kph (or 45 mph)! We came out looking like coal miners because all the black ash comes flying in your face, and you can't scream unless you don't mind volcanic rocks in your mouth. Rachel, Anna, and Maggie beat me by going 78 kph and 77 kph, but one guy broke the top 5 record by going 84 kph! Unfortunately, a Norwegian girl, who ended up going 81 kph, fell and broke her collarbone. I guess doing the 2nd most thrilling thing in the world does come with a risk.

This weekend we're heading to Ometepe and I'm so excited to be doing some hiking! But in the meantime, this week we're heading to a Nicaraguan baseball game, and then on Thursday having our own little Thanksgiving. Hopefully I'll get the chance to be doing some cooking for everyone!

Only 18 days until I come home! I'm feeling very ready for some Louisville in my life.
Becca

pictures soon!

Friday, November 11, 2011

nicaragua beach pictures

pool playtime

surfing lessons!!

rachel and me on kayaks at sunset. can you believe this view from our house?

catchin' fish on my birthday!

rachel and me on the sunset cruise for my birthday

last sunset

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

finally in Nicaragua!

hello all! I am finally writing my first post from Nicaragua, our final destination on this whirlwind of a semester. After a 3:30 am departure time, a 10 hour ride, and 3 border crossings, we made it into the capital city of Managua, but then immediately got on another bus en route to San Juan del Sur, the beach town where we rented a house for our fall break week.

Rachel, Eric, Dylan, Charles, Laura, Georgia, Dylan's sister Andrea, and myself, made it to Rivas, an inland town just about 25 minutes from the coast, just after sunset. Unfortunately, there were no more buses to take us to San Juan, so we hopped in taxis, directing them to the only hostel we knew the name of. The taxi drivers told us they could drop us off at the foot of the hill, but couldn't drive up the dirt road due to the poor conditions from rains. When we arrived, a police truck met us at the entrance and agreed to drive us up, but unfortunately the hostel only had 2 empty beds... and there were 8 of us. The police said that they would take us into the town to another hostel, but they seemed kind of sketchy about the whole situation. When we got back in the truck, 3 of us were in the cab with the rest in the bed, and Laura thanked the policeman for their help. They looked at each other and laughed. Kind of weird. Then they dropped us off about a mile from the hostel, claiming they couldn't take us any further but then asked us to write down our names. Also weird. We were so tired and hungry that we didn't care, and just agreed to take taxis into town. We finally ended Casa Oro, a really great surfing hostel right in the heart of San Juan, and we were so pleased to find that we got free drink tickets and breakfast in the morning.

The next morning after some grocery shopping we were picked up by the property managers of our house and driven out to our absolutely beautiful beach-front home. Honestly, we did not deserve such an incredible place. It had a pool, gates that opened up to the sand of the beach, and A/C in every bedroom (a luxury we had been dearly missing). We spent the first couple days lounging, reading, sea-kayaking (cuz the house had those too!), surf lessons, and partying... of course :). On my 21st birthday which fell in the middle of the week, we went back into San Juan and took a sunset booze cruise, which was absolutely amazing! We were able to stop and swim, fish a little, and just listen to music on the water while the sun went down. We had such incredible weather the entire week, I don't know how we got so lucky. After the boat trip we went into town for a beach front dinner, where a large table of old white folks were also celebrating their friend's 50th birthday. I had had a little too much to drink (it was my 21st,  I'm allowed to!) and went up to the man whose birthday it was and told him, "don't worry! your not as old as my dad!" Oops.

Just as getting into San Juan was hard, getting out was almost harder. We called a cab for 9 am, a reliable one that our house keeper had recommended, so that we could catch the 10 am bus. They never showed, so we called kind of upset because we were going to miss the express bus. They told us that there was a giant truck stuck in the mud in the middle of the road that leads to our house, and that they wouldn't be able to get through. So we packed up all of our stuff and started walking, completing nearly two miles once we had reached our taxis. It was hot, humid, muddy with tons of puddles, and by the time we got there, I was not the happiest of people. Our cabbie was so great though and took us straight to Rivas so that we could catch the next express bus... which we also barely made. But we ended up in Managua safe and sound.

Needless to say, the entire week was exactly what we needed with tons of sleep and fun, gearing us up for the last six weeks of our semester. We've had two days of classes and moved in with our host families for the better part of the time spent here, and I can tell the time is going to fly. Rachel and I are living together in the house of Dona Marta, the sweetest little woman I've ever met who refers to us as "mi chicas." Both of our professors for our poli sci and history classes are such intelligent and strong women, and I'm really excited for learning more about Nicaragua's history.

Ciao!
Becca

pictures soon!

Friday, October 21, 2011

a poem.

Here is a poem that I chose to write as my personal reflection for my time spent in El Salvador. Birthed from growing frustration and confusion over the actions and philosophies of my country, this "manifesto" is something that I wish I could read to every United States citizen; just some food for thought:


The Mad American's Manifesto



Embrace slow.
Realize that not everything
should be pre-packaged and ready
in 90 seconds.
If all moves so fast, memories
and feelings will fail to
catch the train at the station.
Redlights only seem like
their taunting time if you think
the world stops for you.

Accept being average.
Our buildings do not need
to exceed the clouds,
our defense department does not
need to bully all the weak kids
in this global classroom.
Didn’t you see the movies?
The jock always peaks in
high school.

Seek the necessary.
Neighborhoods do not need to sprawl
like cancer cells.
Three cars ARE too many, and
your dog doesn’t care to watch
the Weather Channel at all hours.
Cross-breeze makes for a great A/C unit.
A balanced diet goes beyond
your belly.

Question everything.
There’s no need to raise your
hand anymore, the world will
show you its answer. When what
you witness and what you’re told
don’t equalize, you’re
solving to find the Truth. Living
in a daze of treated information
will only clog the arteries of
knowledge.

Challenge your default settings.
If you’ve sworn allegiance to
your own flag, your thoughts will
live in a dictatorship. Fear the
weight of reality, but be surprised by
your soul’s strength.
Let judgments be followed by curiosity
and child-like optimism. This earth’s
people are not one-size-fits-all.

Welcome responsibility.
Knowledge enjoys permanent residence here; let it.
Do not ignore your own Truths; do not quarantine the past.
Plant trees, sit with suffering’s citizens,
avoid those who enforce the status quo.
Care for water. (I cannot emphasize this enough). 
Practice consciousness, practice humanity.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

tragedy in Central America

I'm not sure how televised or talked about it is in the U.S., but there have been devastating rains and storms throughout all of central america for the past week. we woke up last monday morning, grateful for a cooling from the rain, but unfortunately it never stopped, and really only grew in power. the group hasn't experienced the flooding firsthand, but the majority of the lower region of el salvador and guatemala is devastated by flooding that is greater than when hurricane mitch hit in 2008.

there is a community we visited two weekends ago called nueva esperanza, which has an incredible history: during the war this community of about 600 were driven out by the army, forced to live in the basement of a church for upwards of 6 years, displaced to refugee camps in nicaragua, and then finally returned to land that, for the first time, is legally entitled to them in the bajo lempa region. we caught wind of news today that the entire community is now under water, and most everyone was able to evacuate except for a few who are now awaiting either boats or helicopters to come. however even more sad, is that the agricultural co-op they've developed over the last 15 years or so, which yields coconuts, sugar cane, mangos, corn, and cows, is now completely ruined. a good majority of this community relies upon the small profits from these farms for their sustenance.

being in central america as a traveling student from the united states feels so crippling. we are so close to the victims, having even made friendships with many, and yet we are leaving the country on saturday to go on a vacation to the beach for our fall break. our directors told us that if we get the opportunity to volunteer this week they'll let us know, however, the reality is that we are able to pick up our things and leave these countries that have given us so much, when they are in their greatest need. of course I will carry their story and my experiences with me forever, but it is a perfect example how far removed our privileged lives are from the poor and oppressed, who are continually the worst off in such disasters, and are the last to be attended to.

so, long story short, if you could keep these people in your thoughts, prayers, energies, or whatever works for ya, please do so, as they'll need all they can get.



A mural in Nueva Esperanza. Translation: "We build a free town."

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

just some pics.

A typical rural road in El Salvador. The country, plus palm trees!

Ronald, our little guitarrista in Tierra Blanca.


The team plays sports on the beach.

And of course some chicken fighting,
The group at the top of Volcano Santa Ana

The top of Santa Ana... with a sulfur lake!

a brief hiatus

Hey there! I have to apologize for how long it has taken me to write a recent post... time in El Salvador flies and with the absence of my laptop, I was lacking some accessibility.

However, my laptop is returned, and fixed! I think. We picked it up from the computer place because it was going to take too long to fix and we would be no longer in El Salvador (the technician said it just needed a new keyboard?) but when I got home and attempted to turn it on, it arose from the dead! It was the same day that Steve Jobs passed away, so I'm convinced his spirit was reincarnated in my computer. Everything works just about fine.. I've had a small problem or two but when I shut it off for a couple hours it works perfectly later.

On other notes, El Salvador has been a whirlwind. I can't believe that we only have 10 days left here!! It really seems as if we just arrived. Due to safety and educational reasons, we leave the capital on the weekends to visit rural communities, and then we have Monday and Tuesday off as our weekends. So for example today feels like a Monday, but it's already Wednesday and halfway through the week! Our time goes so quickly and we don't even realize it.

The time we spend here is so much different then in Guatemala. It feels much more like the United States, with the Americanization of most of the consumer stores and products (including the dollarization of the currency). We also don't have much free time, and if we do, it's usually spent just hanging out in our house, which can be really relaxing but can ignite some feelings of cabin fever. Our directors try to get us out of the house as often as they can, so we'll go out to restaurants for lunch or dinner. However our rural stays have been really incredible. Since our course is based on liberation theology, we often visit "Christian-based communities," in which theology and religion play in integral role in the workings of the community, such as social programs, sports, support groups, agricultural cooperatives, and education. Often times, the church serves as a means for funding programs that the citizens then implement. These communities have a really interesting tie to liberation theology, but I won't bore you with the theoretical details.

As most of our days are about the same, I haven't had much interesting to write about so I haven't felt the need to. Our lives have become very routine, and I guess life in Central America seems more or less normal, which isn't a bad thing by any means! We are planning our fall break in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua, and we've also visited some beaches and volcanoes. I'll post pictures soon enough!

Nos vemos,
Becca

Saturday, September 24, 2011

some time in the mountains, and some time to relax

so it's only been about a week since I last blogged, but so much as occurred in those 7 days! On Sunday we left Xela for the small mountain community of Chuitizibral (I think I definitely butchered that spelling) which is only about 40 minutes away. For being so close to the second to largest city in Guatemala, it is so incredibly far in terms of living situations. For one, we had to get off our bus and into the back of pick ups just in order to get up the windy dirt road to the community. The little town is made up of about 30 indigenous families, many of whom are lucky to have electricity and concrete floors. Snuggled in square miles of milpa (the Spanish word for corn stalk), our schooling was housed in the only church, with the scenery inviting morning strolls in place of sitting at a desk for class. Our teachers from our Spanish school in Xela were bused out to us every morning, with informal class in the morning, and then an activity around noon. We had a traditional cooking lesson, visited a glass-blowing co-op, bathed in natural hot springs (definitely a highlight), and went on some hikes through in beautiful mountains surrounding our homes.

Most importantly, however, were the families that we had the opportunity of staying with in the village. Rachel and I were placed in a house that was the farthest from the school, but I was never irriated as our walk to and from through corn stalks and greeted by dogs and puppies along the way. Our family was mama Corlina, papa Jose, and the dos hermanos, Josue who is 9, and Eduardo who is 5. Their house was a modest, four-room abode, yet they were so abundant in hospitality and warmth. It was a completely different experience from our home stays in Xela, where much of the time it seemed as if we were just boarding in a guest house; but here the families welcome students into their homes only twice a year, and are so quick to include them into the daily routines of life in the campo of Guatemala. Running water did not exist, so there was a latrine for a bathroom, and warmed pots of water for a shower. However waking up and walking outside to be greeted by the parting morning fog amidst the mountains and rows of corn was a sight that I'll never forget. Although our stay was just four days, I am definitely leaving Guatemala with a new appreciation of the privileges I am given in my own home, and how although we can fill our houses with so much, sometimes what we really lack are the close and fulfilling relationships that a community produces.


We're ending our last couple days here back in Antigua, so that we can relax, clear our minds, and be fresh when we enter the next chapter of our trip in El Salvador. The group is so excited to all be living together in a guest house (jokingly calling it The Real World: San Salvador), and to be changing up the course work and learning about another country's history and struggles. I leave Guatemala with proficient -- somewhat-- Spanish, and an itch in my body for more traveling.


Adios Guatemala, buenes dias El Salvador!
Becca


I'll attempt to post pictures when I have better internet and a functioning computer!

Friday, September 16, 2011

the good, the bad, the really good, and the really bad

hey there! I apologize for the brief hiatus in blog posts, but sometimes it just takes sitting down and writing to get it done. I´ll attempt to summarize what has happened in the last two weeks as best I can:

THE GOOD: we´ve done/experienced some really incredible things in the last two busy weeks. We met with a couple who lived in the US for 23 years in avoidance of the war. they welcomed us into their home to eat lunch and hear their story... they were crucial in the sanctuary project of the 1980s, and found Vermont as their home for such a long period of time. we also participated in a traditional Mayan cosmovision ceremony which may be one of the coolest things I´ve experienced thus far... led by a Mayan priest, we all stood in a circle around the sacrificial fire and took full part in the ceremony by offering candles, sugar, and sesame seeds (or something similar) while the priest chanted in the traditional Qui´che language and explained to us what all of this words and actions meant. Mayan cosmovision is centered on a balance between light, rest, spirit, and tangible beings. I greatly admire their devotion to the earth and to each other, and the balanced approach they have to life and death. This has also been independence week for all of Central America, and Xela is headquarters for the party. Wednesday night the parque central is closed off and is surrounded by street vendors selling deliciously fried foods and tons of live music. At midnight, there´s a fireworks show to greet the Independence Day and everyone shouts in celebration. We all had a blast, and drank our fair share of tequila shots to greet the day.

THE BAD: the majority of the group has encountered digestive issues from either the food or water... inevitable

THE REALLY GOOD: is called Lake Atitlan. Last weekend we had our first free weekend to do whatever we wanted, but most students choose to go to a nearby lake. It´s a volcanic lake that is rumored to have first erupted nearly 11 million years ago, and it´s the largest of its kind in Central America. We arrived on friday afternoon with pouring down rain and tons of clouds, so we were really worried what this ¨"paradise" was really going to turn out to be. We had to take a small speed boat to the town where our hostel was, because there aren´t roads that connect all of the different towns around the lake, and when we got there I have to say it was a relief that all of the staff were either American, English, or Australian. A break from Spanish wouldn´t hurt. The hostel was BEAUTIFUL, the food was delicious, and the staff and other guests were so friendly. We woke up on Saturday to an incredibly clear morning, with the two giant volcanoes straight across the lake. Asking around to the other guests, we figured out that we could hike for about 20 minutes to a cliff where we could jump into the lake. We knew that we had to walk through the property of a hotel that was down by the water, and it turned out to be the most tranquil and beautiful property I've ever seen. The lake has risen nearly 20 feet just in the last 2 years, and the water was covering some of the lower patios of the hotel, \which made for perfect wading to be possible. The water was a sweet 75 degrees and the sun just hot enough to dry us after swimming. Needless to say after all the rainy and cold days in Xela the weather was more than needed. We had a great dinner and a little too much fun at the party afterward (every Saturday in the hostel is encourages cross-dressing) and then woke up on Sunday to do the same thing. When we were jumping off the cliff a man who lived nearby started yelling at us to get off. We swam back over to the hotel and he rode over on his boat to tell us that it was a "nature preserve that cost him a lot of money." I guess he felt bad for chastising us, so he came back over about 5 minutes later to offer to buy us drinks at a nearby country club. For free drinks? Of course we would go! We walked over and it was a gorgeous club with an infinity pool and a bar, and the man who introduced himself as Bill was super nice. It was an excellent way to end the trip.

THE REALLY BAD: my computer is completely broken. I can only use school computers, but luckily we're leaving to go to a rural community on Sunday so technology won't be needed. However, I'm really worried what I'm going to do to fix it, as I have to wait until we get to El Salvador.

Ciao!
Becca

Sunday, September 4, 2011

settling in

A week has passed with Xela as being my new home, and it's come with a whirlwind of experiences and emotions. It's a really nice city, however on days when it pours and is cold it tends to induce negative thoughts... mostly about the sanitation and pollution. But on sunny days it's really nice!! Spanish is going well, it's SUPER intense for 5 hours a day, and by the end everyone seems to be pretty exhausted. The level I'm in is a little higher than I expected to take, so I'm trying to keep up and am doing fairly well. The group finds things that make us happy (CHOCOBANANOS). They're the greatest things ever... frozen bananas dipped in chocolate and rolled in nuts. Makes any bad day better. We're also starting to find our "places" in town, which is nice to have some consistency.

Last week we had some really incredible speakers come visit with us. As a lot of people aren't aware of, Guatemala experienced a 36 year civil war that ended only recently in 1996. The economic and social well-being of the people haven't really improved much since then, and the repercussions of the war are still lingering with the civilians. On Wednesday we met with a colonel from the Guatemalan army, and he delivered a very well put together, yet limited, presentation on the military and government's position during the war. On Thursday, a ex-guerrilla commander came to speak at the school, and she was so incredibly inspiring and intelligent. It was a great dichotomy to have the two presentations back to back, as the colonel's speech was still fresh in my mind when I heard Victoria. From what we've been learning, and just everyday interaction with Guatemalan people, it's hard not to back the guerrilla resistance, as their efforts always had the interest of the social well-being of all Guatemalan citizens, and were not influenced by economic and political gains. In general, my further education of Guatemalan life and it's rich and devastating history has really made me realize how lucky I am to have been born in the United States, and the privileges we have at our fingertips that so many others are denied.

The week was really intense so it was great this past weekend for us to get out of the city and travel to the little town of Chicicastenago, which is famous for the largest outdoor market in Central America! On our way there we stopped in this BEAUTIFUL mountain community that is home to a women's weaving co-op, all of whom were widowed from the war. It was started through the Methodist church, and today they sell their own woven products in order to support themselves. We had to hike for about 15 minutes to get to the house, and it was through rows of corn on the side of an incredible Guatemalan mountain. Of course I forgot my camera. The visit was really humbling, and all of the women were so sweet. We went to the city afterwards and had a free afternoon and then a great dinner all together again. Today we woke up early and went to the market which was so comical. It was incredibly crowded, but those vendors KNOW when you've got some money to spend. People walk around with products and will follow and badger you relentlessly until you're able to lose them in the crowd. It was so fun to bargain, and I ended up buying gifts for tons of people back home (and for myself) and only spent about $50 US dollars. The exchange rate still amazes me. It was a great way to use Spanish in a real world context! I'll post some pictures here soon.

But we're back in Xela now, and I'm back to the grind of studying for another Spanish test I have tomorrow.

Hasta luego!
Becca

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Volcanos and Host Families!

Yesterday we hiked the Santa Maria volcano, the highest volcano in Guatemala. I was super bummed upon arriving to find out that my camera was dead. So those pictures I promised to take? Yeah they don't exist. It was so incredibly beautiful and difficult. The city of Xela is at about 7500 feet above sea level, and the volcano sits a good 8000 ft higher. We left Xela around 5:30 am and started trekking at 6, making it to the peak around 9:30. I've never experienced the lack of oxygen, and because of it, I felt like someone was grabbing onto my lungs so that little air could be let in. It was SO COLD.. probably around 35 degrees when the wind blew, but you could see for about 100 miles. When the clouds cleared, the view reached to the Pacific Ocean and into Mexico! A volcano that was right next to Santa Maria erupted around 10 am, and the ash cloud kept us from seeing a lot of the time but it was still worth it. On the way down I started to feel really woozy and nauseous, and I ended up getting altitude sickness which can only be cured by... not being at a high altitude. So the hike down was pretty terrible and I feel so sick, and ended up taking it easy the rest of the day.

But today has been great! We finally finished up our orientation week (so hard to believe we've only been here a week), and moved in with our host families! A lot of us were extremely nervous (definitely including me); not just for the language barrier but also for being separated from one another and entering into the home of complete strangers. But my family is so sweet! I was quite relieved upon meeting them.. My host mom is Lorena, an elementary school teacher, and she has twin daughters, Debora and Dorca, who are 17. The girls are so cute, and Lorena is extremely welcoming and warm... So I can't wait to get to know them more! They're also extremely patient with my lack of Spanish skills, so that's greatly appreciated.

Alright well I'm signing off.. not much else to do around here so I'm gonna take a nap. Spanish starts tomorrow! Super pumped for that.

Friday, August 26, 2011

First Days in Xela

Our first days in Xela (pronounced Shey-la) have been so many things. First off, it's a beautiful mountain town, and every morning the clouds are just laying in the peaks of the mountains and it's breathtaking. The city has tiny little streets, many of them cobblestone, and some as hilly as streets in San Francisco. We explored the markets yesterday, partly on our own and partly doing an exercise on the socio-economic conditions of Xela, and it was both interesting and incredibly eye-opening. For our exercise, Fidel, who is the director of the program in Guatemala, gave groups of three 50 Quetzales (about 5 US dollars) which is about what the average Guatemalan makes in a day, and had us go to the market and attempt to buy different items for a family of five. My group consisted of Charles, Anna, and myself, were supposed to buy food, and with the 50 Q, we were only able to buy enough food for one meal... 1 tomato, 1 onion, a pound of rice, a pound of salt, a pound of corn flour, a package of chicken, and 3 avocados. Other groups bought clothing, school supplies, and medical supplies/expenses. After returning from the market we met up to share what we bought, but also to analyze the economic situation that most Guatemalans face... If you're the sole worker in your family earning only 50 or 60 Q a day, imagine trying to provide for an entire family when we could only buy enough food for one meal! And to think if there were a medical emergency, when a trip to a doctor is 200 Q. It was definitely the first major shock I had that made me realize how lucky most Americans are to have such expendable income. Ten bucks at the grocery store is nothing, and much of the time, it's easy to just throw away money.

The people are something else also. They are always presented so well, even if they have nothing, and are incredibly respectful to each other and especially to us. Guatemalans are VERY quiet, and a lot of the time would rather be passive than to say anything. For example when we were in Antigua, at dinner we bought some wine which we have to pay outside of our budgeted food from the school, and we walked out completely forgetting to pay for it. The next day we gave our guide the money to pay, and she told us that it probably came out of the waiter's wage. If that were the case in America, someone would have run after us to (rudely) remind us that we didn't pay. We had several interactions with the server, and he didn't mention it once. However when they do speak, they always have a smile and are so polite.

Last night we had dinner on our own for the first time (so we didn't have Ruth or Joe with us, the two program facilitators who are basically mom and dad) and ordering was hilarious. Rachel, Dylan, Maggie, Charles, Eric, and I found this little place with pretty basic Guatemalan food, and when ordering really realized how bad most of us are at speaking. The waitress laughed with us, especially at Dylan who has had no Spanish instruction at all. Someone always has to whisper what to say in his ear, and then translated to his own words usually comes out about half right. The food is ridiculously cheap, with my dinner of two enchiladas being only about $1.70, and beer about $2. After eating we walked to the town square and went to this bar, meeting up with the other half of the group, and pretty much all got completely hammered. A liter of good sangria is only about $13! I'm sure that we were obnoxious and loud Americans, taking tequila shots and drinking way too much beer, and the stumbling back to our hotel. We all went up on the roof, doing god-knows-what, and then Georgia, Eric, and I had the inkling to come back down to my room to listen to the Charlie Brown Christmas CD. Don't ask me why. We went back up to the roof and stood in a huddle for probably about 30 minutes, confessing our love for one another, until a hotel worker came up and told us to go to bed. Rachel, Maggie, and I went back to our room and were all in bed talking in laughing when Georgia and Evy came down to tell us that they could hear us upstairs with their door closed. Needless to say it was a good night.

Today we're learning more about life in Xela, and then get to tour our school for the first time. Tomorrow we get to climb one of the largest volcanoes in the country! So excited and I'll definitely post pictures.

Ciao

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

 courtyard at our guest house in Guatemala City
 colorful buses!
 la plaza central in antigua
 antigua
first group photo!

From Guatemala City, to Antigua, and finally in Quetzeltenago

Hola!!! It's been a couple days since I've had the opportunity to update, but it's been a busy journey already! We left Guatemala City yesterday after touring the central plaza and visiting a school in the municipal garbage dump (one of the most famous in the world) that attempts to take children out of working in the dump and offering them an education. The woman who runs it was so motivated and kind-hearted, and it was great to have a first look into the social and political situations of Guatemala. We headed to the colonial city of Antigua, which was breathtaking with its cobble streets and 17th century architecture. We had the afternoon free to explore on our own, and then met up with the group for dinner at an Italian restaurant... in Guatemala. Dinner was followed by a talk with a Guatemalan man who was arrested and exiled during the civil war, and it was incredibly interesting to really begin to analyze and question the factors that led to such a brutal war for 36 years. With the United States' civil war so long ago, it's hard to imagine living in a country where there were civil conflicts happening in our own lifetime, much of which was horribly corrupted and disgustingly violent.

On a lighter note, the group ended the night by experiencing the night life in Antigua, which is a rather popular tourist spot. The exchange rate for money is about 7.7 quetzales for one American dollar, and we were getting drinks for about 50 cents! Definitely lent itself well for a fun night. We bar hopped to a couple different places, most of which were filled with American and European tourists, but it was awesome just to bond with the other kids in the program. There's only 13 of us, and we've already started to mesh so well! I feel really comfortable with everyone (I don't know if it's out of necessity or just because everyone is so great) but it's been such a great experience so far.

We made it to Quetzeltenago where we'll be staying for the next month, and the town is absolutely beautiful. We're at about 6000 feet above sea level, so the temperature is like the most perfect fall day. The drive wound us through the lush mountains that were filled with the most adorable little villages and farming communities. We currently have our first downtime in a while, so I've decided to chill in the room while it's raining outside.

Talk again soon!
Becca

Monday, August 22, 2011

Hola para Guatemala City!!

I MADE IT! I´ve arrived at the guest house that we´re staying in tonight, and it´s absolutely beautiful. It has a courtyard full of lush flowers and plants, which is pretty much how the entire city is. Guatemala City is much nicer than I expected! I guess I had poor expectations, but it´s very much like any American city. The infrastructure is definitely the main difference, with roads being in poorer conditions and most housing a little dilapidated, but in general it´s really beautiful. It´s also not unusual to see men standing outside of certain buildings with rifles. We arrived right when it starts raining in the afternoon (as it does everyday during the rainy season) and I´ve never seen a storm like that! But it only lasts about an hour and a half and then clears up again. It definitely lends itself well to all of the vegetation, as everything is soooooo beautifully green. Flying in was gorgeous, as the area is so mountainous with rigid peaks. 


All of the natives have been very welcoming, and it´s interesting recognizing the major cultural differences. One of the first things I noticed is that Guatemala has an upcoming presidential election taking place on September 11th, and there are campaign materials EVERYWHERE, with the candidates face taking up the majority of the poster. I noticed probably 6 or 7 presidential candidates, which is already a large difference from American politics. Also, the public transportation is starkly different from any in the US. Most of the public buses are old school buses that have been painted in rich colors and designs, with each bus having it´s own feel. Something that the US should definitely adopt.

There are about 8 students here at the moment, three of whom were on my connecting flight from Houston. Everyone is already so friendly, and I can tell I´ll be making some great friendships. There are 4 boys and 7 or 8 girls, but not everyone will be arriving until later on tonight. Today is our only night in Guatemala City, and tomorrow we´ll spend the first half of the day touring, and then heading to the colonial town of Antigua for the night. Then on Wednesday we travel to Quetzeltenago (with the colloquial name of Shela), where we´ll be staying the rest of the time in Guatemala. We have orientation for the week, and then on Sunday we are introduced to our host families, where we´ll be living for 3 weeks. I´m already so excited for the experiences, because it seems we´ll be doing so much cool stuff! This Saturday we´re hiking a volcano that is one of the tallest peaks in Central America.

Hopefully I´ll be taking some pictures soon, and posting them up here!

Hast luego,
becca

Sunday, August 21, 2011

pre-travel

Welcome to the home where I will record most of my time spent in Latin America for the coming semester. I haven't actually left yet (about 30 hours left in the United States), but I figured it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and get started. My bag has yet to be packed, with all of my stuff sitting in the middle of my floor, and I doubt all of it is going to fit into one dufflebag. But how am I supposed to know how to pack for four months of my life? Not to mention I'll be in two differing climates (the cooler highlands in Guatemala wheres high temperatures hover around 60 degrees, and then 80s in El Salvador and Nicaragua). It's unusual imagining my everyday clothes and personal items in such a completely different culture... Here, I blend into in the heterogeneous American culture; just a typical white, educated, somewhat-alternative girl. I have no idea how I'm going to react to being so easily recognized as American, and in turn, how that's going to affect my return to the United States after the trip. There are so many things I can't fathom at the moment (most namely the language barrier), but I've decided that it's nothing I can come up with out of thin air. So for the remainder of my time at home, I'm going about my daily life until I sit down on that plane headed south. I apologize if this post doesn't have much to it, but I thought it would be interesting to journal some of my thoughts before I actually begin on this one-of-a-kind journey.

I'll write again via Guatemala!!